The Magical South Lombok
Pantai Seger holds a story about one of the most famous legends of Lombok, Princess Mandalika. The story told that the beauty of the princess has brought the country into a potential wars as princes from around the country were competing to win her heart. She trapped in a dilemma as she believed that no matter whom she chose, the ones who lost their chance would get upset and fired a war. In the spirit of saving the country by preventing the bloodshed the princess decided to end her life. She climbed the hill and right before she jumped she promised to return to the beach every year in the form of sea worms locally known as nyale.
As promised, the princess returns to the beach every year in the form of thousands of nyale, normally sometime in February, five days after the full moon. Nyale can be found every where along the 70 miles stretch of Lombok’s southern coastline, however in commemoration of the story, all festivity are centered at Seger Beach. People floods to the beach at night to catch nyale creeping into the beach before the sunrise. The protein-rich creatures are then cooked and enjoyed together. Looking at the slimy texture of the worms it is hard to believe that they are the reincarnation of the most beautiful princess in Lombok’s history.
Seger Beach is part of Kuta area on the south coast of Lombok. In February worm hunters invaded the beach, but along most other times, especially in summer, the white sandy beach is the paradise for surfers coming from all over the globe. Surf breaks against the soaring rock are what makes the surfers find themselves in paradise. Rolling verdant hills on one side creates a contrast color against the sky. Kuta is famous for its collection of beautiful beaches, the very reason attracting beach lovers make it a holiday destination.
Culinary adventurers have to stop by and taste puyung-puyung, authentic traditional dish from the area. You can easily find some in Mataram, the island’s capital, but at its home village it tastes by far better. Among a few places selling puyung-puyung is Warung Inaq Esun, right on the main road. For seven thousand rupiah you get the food on banana leaf container consisting of rice, chicken, sauted chili, and roasted soybean. Stir the chicken and sauted chili evenly with the rice so the spiciness gets evenly spread before you start.
The next beach to Seger is Tanjung Aan. In this area surfers greet the wave early in the morning as the sky begins to blush. The silhouette of Mount Rinjani in a distance endorse the picturesqueness of the area. Climbing the mountain is temporarily closed as activity of its the smaller Mount Barujari is escalating, belching thick smoke to the sky.
Almost all beaches in the south of Lombok endowed large waves, and Tanjung Aan are one of the most beautiful. Long coastline with gorgeous shades of sea water makes it a favorite travelers. Towering hill in the middle of this beach splitting into two parts. Uniquely, the second part has a different texture of the sand: grain of pepper on one side, and as fine powder on the other side. If Tanjung Aan is the most picturesque one, Gerupuk is surfers paradise. Located in the east of Kuta, the beach is the conqueror of the waves.
To see the real action you have to peddle yourself out to the sea or hire a boat. Gerupuk is suitable to wide range of surfing skill, from beginners to professionals. Surfing is not in foreigner’s domination. Many local athlete won surfing tournaments in Lombok. “A decade ago it is difficult to get a surfboard. Locals trained themselves on broken boards abandoned by visiting foreign tourists. Now the situation has changed and locals get the same opportunity”, a local surfer said.
You may find it interesting to find a successful vegetarian restaurant in the area famous for its grilled chicken. Ashtari is located about two kilometers from Kuta. Perching on a ridge, the short tracks is only suitable for a jeep. But the bumpy drive gets paid by breath taking views as we reach its balcony with soothing breeze, expansive ocean views, and row rolling verdant hill. The building is unique combination of Indian and local Sasak style. Entering its fragrant scented dining area visitors are required to remove their shoes.
Chef and owner Helen Morgan has been living in Lombok for more than 5 years before she opened her business 5 years ago. A vegetarian for more than 34 years she believed that vegetarian is nothing at all about economic consideration but a personal preference. Nothing is imported, the kitchen is solely stocked by local ingredients from the traditional market.
Five miles from the restaurant is Mawun beach. The short distance takes longer due to bad road condition. But the area is surely taking up in the near future. Signs of “Land for Sale” are scattered around inviting investments. Lombok became an investment target after construction of the new international airport got started. Beautiful curving coastline with blue-green water color gradation is only enjoyed by a handful tourists, but the silence of Mawun will soon disappear.
Seven miles from Mawun is Selong Belanak. Located close to local town, unlike Mawun, this area is a bit more lively. The beach is full of fishing boats and crowd of local kids. Looks similar to Jogja’s Parangtritis, the stretch of white soft sandy beach occasionally translated into racing line by local teenagers.
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