Hidden Paradise of Ujung Genteng
What do we know about Ujung Genteng? The name is rather strange even to most Indonesians. People may know Ujung Kulon better, the conservation area which serves as the natural habitat to some of the most endangered species. Geographically the two places are located at the western tip of Java.
Administratively located at the southern edge of Sukabumi regency, Ujung Genteng promises its visitors adventurous experience, something appealing them to return. It has white sandy beaches reminding us to Lombok, beautiful waterfalls reminding us to Niagara, and whilst it is located on the coastline it has ricefield at the same beauty as Ubud.
I got to know Ujung Genteng back in 1990s when it was known for its sea turtle conservation. I could see cute baby turtles released to the open sea in daylight and sneak at night to see mother turtles buried their eggs. Afterward I keep on coming back almost every year, but have never had the real answer about where the name came from. Ujung simply means cape. Genteng means tile roof, however there is not even a single tile roof makers here as well as in its neighboring areas.
About four hours drive from Jakarta we will reach a long bridge called Bagbagan, just before the fishing port town of Pelabuhan Ratu. Right after the bridge we turn left and cross the wide Cimandiri river. The road then hikes uphills whilst the picturesque views of the gulf glimpses behind the trees. About half an hour after we cross the river the surrounding changes into lush hillside forest. The road then steeps downhill before flattening across verdant tea plantation connecting Bagbagan and Kiara Dua. The best is if you plan your time so you can have your lunch at the tea plantation area.
31 kilometers from Bagbagan we will reach a corner of Kiara Dua. To the left is another way back to Sukabumi whilst sign to the right names Jampang Kulon and Surade, two last districts before Ujung Genteng. The distance between Pelabuhan Ratu and Ujung Genteng actually is not so far away, 87 kilometers. But narrow curly hillside roads forces us to spend about three hours to drive the route.
The district of Surade which looks more like a small village than a district capital is the last place where you can get logistic before entering Ujung Genteng. Off Surade you will not find even one single shop. Here the road is rather straight so we can drive faster. You can also drive confidently as there are no corners or turns along the way, there is no chance to get lost.
Sweeping azure Indan Ocean welcomes us at the end of the road. Gentle ocean breeze softly touches your face as you step down from the car. We have just reached Ujung Genteng. There is no welcoming gates, wastes serving nothing than messing up the aesthetics, like we can find in Pelabuhan Ratu or Pangandaran. You will only see a man collecting local retribution who only works over the weekend.
The peacefulness of Ujung Genteng lulls your mind deep into your heart. No traffic, no disturbing sound of horns or exhausts. The road to the east looks straight and quiet whilst to the east looks a bit bumpy. At the fish market we can see colorful traditional fishing boats tied on white sandy beach. The fishing village surrounding the market is completely traditional. It doesn’t even have a pier. Unlike most Indian Ocean coastlines, the sea is calm, almost flat, as the coast is protected by reefs breaking the wave hundred meters before it reaches the coast.
Ujung Genteng was initially a stop over point for fishermen from fishing villages along Java’s southern coast. It was too quiet to be called a village. However slowly but surely its beauty started to reveal. Tourists started to come. Surfing addicts even made their camp in the area. Then hotels and motels started to arise.
Most hotels are located on the west side, some were built as wooden bungalows right on the beach. Electricity is available, but meal options are rather limited, so bringing sufficient logistic is advisable, but if you don’t you can drop yourself by at Hexa, a restaurant at the hotel with the same name, or enjoy fresh seafood at small modest stall on the beach. For even more authentic adventurous experience you can buy fresh sea food at the fish market and set a fire on the beach.
After checking in I took a break whilst enjoying the beautiful beach with pristine water and powder-like white sand beach. The bungalow has a TV, but with the scenery this beautiful, even the best TV show lost its attraction. The following morning I walked barefoot along the beach and occasionally chatted a few fishermen looking fir fishes hiding behind the rocks. I remember some friend saying “There is nothing at all at Ujung Genteng.” Maybe it quietness is not something attractive to anyone. I guess vacation to them means shopping malls, restaurants, or museums. Ujung Genteng of course will make them feel like entering a hollow space, an ancient meditation cave for those seeking for enlightment. Well, maybe it is, it is the right place to sweep away stressful mind.
In fact, Ujung Genteng is not that empty as well. There are many interesting activities to do here such as visiting sea turtle conservation at Pangumbahan. It took me a 15 minutes ride on motorbike taxi to reach the conservation. The motorbike crossed two shallow rivers, no bridges. Sea turtles used to come to Pangumbahan to drop their eggs. In the old days people waited behind the shrubs at night to steal the eggs. Now in the name of conservation the eggs are taken into conservation area until the baby turtles come out. They will be released to the open sea after considered strong enough. Pangumbahan is only reachable on motorbikes, four wheel drive cars, or of course foot.
In the afternoon I went to Cibuaya beach, about 30 minutes from Pangumbahan. The beach with thick golden sand is facing west, perfect for enjoying the sunset. At one end is the estuary of Cibuaya river and quite a dense tropical forest.
The ultimate adventurous sensation is offered by a trip to Ombak Tujuh. The one hour trip is only suitable for trail bike across conservation forest, coconut plantations, and many small rivers. Don’t even think to go there on your own though, better to choose experienced motorbike taxi rider. The exhaustive trip paid off well when you get there. The name Ombak Tujuh – mean seven waves – came from the natural phenomena where wave comes to the shore in seven layers. Ombak Tujuh is definitely a surfer’s paradise.
The white sandy beach reminded me of Dreamland beach in Bali. The difference is that Ombak Tujuh is very much isolated, very quiet, very few visitors, no hawkers, you can enjoy the beach in total privacy. Nearby there is another even more secluded beach which only reachable after climbing the rock and cross shrubs. Absolutely no one else around when I got there, just like being stranded in an uninhabited island.
The following day I spent to explore the inland. I was surprised to know that the area has fertile rice field and waterfalls, something rare in the shoreline. My first target was Curug Cikaso. I was told that in the last few years there are many people coming to Ujung Genteng just for this particular object. The distinction of Curug Cikaso its the green water falling from reddish yellow cliff which looks like Havasu waterfall in the USA.There is another smaller waterfall close by most visitors hire a wooden boat to travel in between, but you can also reach it by walking through the rice fields. Another no-less beautiful waterfall is Curug Ciruti. Width of the river at the top end makes a curtain-like waterfall reminding us to Niagara Fall.
Another hidden treasure of Ujung Genteng is Ciwaru valley located at Ciletuh bay. Located hidden behind the hills between Pelabuhan Ratu and Ujung Genteng, the landscape of Ciwaru valley forms the shape of a giant bowl. I am not a geologist but the perfect round made me believe that it was not an ancient volcanic caldera. Entering the valley you will be entertained by the beautiful rice field in the middle surrounded by lush tropical forest. Somewhere in the slope of the valley there is another waterfall called Curug Cikantek. No less beautiful that the others, though track makes this one the least visited.
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