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Moluccas Magic

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Ternate hides amazing natural beauty and old forts from colonial era. Friendly locals who tend to warmly welcome visiting tourists is another attraction to start the exploration of the exotic island in the northern part of Moluccas archipelago. In Indonesia Ternate is widely know after its picture featured on a bank note, printed on money.

The easiest way to get to Ternate is by air. Welcoming as the aircraft approaching the runway is turquoise color of a lake. The tiny airport of Sultan Babullah serves commercial flights from the larger island of Sulawesi and pioneer flights to remote neighboring islands. It is a real self-service airport, so do not expect any luxurious service or modern equipment. No air-conditioning, no conveyor belt, no porters.

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Sunrise at Schwering is beautiful. Schwering is a concrete crib to protect the beach from abrasion. But more than protector against tidal wave, the area serves like a recreational area for local residents, especially at night when rows of tents erected to sell foods and children amusements. In the morning the area is rather quiet so you can enjoy the warmth of the awaken sun undisturbed. From a distance float the national icon 1,730 meters high Mount Kiematubu on Tidore island along with a smaller one Mount Maitara on another smaller island.

The island of Maitara is located between the two islands of Ternate and Tidore, that is where the name comes from, maitara in local language means in between. Homes to two fishermen village Ake Bai and Doe Doe, the island has a number of snorkeling spots.

On Tidore, activities are centered at Soasiu, a small but clean town serving also as the administrative capital of the island. Not many vehicles there with bentor, motorbike with attached carriage cart, as the main transportation mode. Tidore can be reached on speed boat cruise departing Bastiong Port of Ternate to Rum Port of Tidore. Maitara is reachable in shorter 10 minutes speed boat trip. Scenic trip is enjoyable between Rum Port and Soasiu with uniformed houses painted in light green and blue colors are neatly cascading along the way.

Basitong is quite a busy port serving trips to various remote islands. Some are served by speedboats whilst the rest are served by wooden vessels. The area also serves as land transportation terminal as well as marketplace. Smoked leg-sized fishes can be found almost all around. The easiest way to get around is hiring an ojek, motorbike taxi for the whole day.

ternate-fort-kalamataFort Oranje was built by Dutch back in 1607 as the central command in fights against Portugal and Spain as well as the central office of VOC in the region. The fort is now occupied by Indonesian military force. Unfortunately the legendary fort which records an important part of Indonesian history is not properly maintained. Stones composing the walls are falling down whilst grasses and shrubs fill up the floors.

Fort Tolukko located close to the palace is at an opposite situation. Built by Portugal colonial authority also back in the 16th century, the government has made two years long thorough renovation back in 1995. Groups of foreign tourists as well as NGOs are recorded as frequent visitors. Spectacular views of the town of Ternate down to its coastline, mount Kiematubu of Tidore, and Mount Gamalama are enjoyable from the top of the main building.

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ternate-sultan-palaceAnother interesting landmark is the palace commanding the whole town from its up hill position facing Salero Beach. The magnitude of the ancient Moslem monarch is still clearly visible with elegant flags erected in the front yard. The strength is magnified by the soaring Mount Gamalama in the back. As other ancient palaces in the country, the plaza in front pf the palace is used as the center of people’s activities.

On the way to Sulamadaha Beach lies Batu Angus with its black colored lava stone. The history recorded a historic battle between Indonesian military force against Japanese colonials. Cemetery of Japanese military officials mark the tragedy. Sulamadaha Beach with its beautiful scenery of stone framing the neighboring island of Hiri is located about 10 minutes away from Batu Angus. Different from most beaches, Sulamadaha is rather cool under the shade of soaring trees.

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Another natural beauty can be found at Lake Tolire, the lake welcoming every aircraft approaching Sultan Babullah airport. The lake is quite quiet with only a few couples in romance visiting. Legend stories say about drawn village at the bottom of the lake and a cave in one side inhabited by alligators only visible by certain supra-natural masters. Locals believe that no one can throw a stone away to the middle of the lake. The stone will fall down not far away from the thrower’s foots. The stone story is scientifically makes sense. The lake is quite large so not many people have enough strength to throw a stone to the middle. Furthermore the stones along the lakeside are rich of iron, more sensitive to gravity than ordinary stones. However the myth about the magical alligator remains a myth.

Other notable beauties include a number of other beaches, Lake Laguna, Fort Kastela, and the Town of Janji.

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