A Little Paradise Called Belitung
Belitung is definitely worth to be included into wish-list of beach lovers. White sandy beach with giant granite stones along its coastline and nearly inhabited smaller islands surrounding it are there to explore. Belitung lies between two giant islands in the western part of Indonesian archipelago, Sumatra and Kalimantan, just next to a wider known little island of Bangka. A short one hour flight from Jakarta will bring us to HAS Hanandjoeddin airport of Tanjungpandan. Upon approaching the airport, we can see large holes left from tin mining during the Dutch colonial.
Belitung could not be separated from tin mining operated by Dutch colonial authority since 1852. We still can meet the successors of Chinese family migrated by the Dutch to work in the mining. Tin and economic growth as a mining area have attracted many from other parts of Indonesian archipelago to make their living. PT Timah, a state owned company who took over the mining from Dutch colonial has stopped their exploration back in 1991, but harmonious living among ethnics there which is dominated by Malays sustains.
Most accommodation facilities are located at the capital city of Tanjungpandan. Narrow road does not result in traffic jam as most likely we will only see other cars a few times on the way between the airport and the central of Tanjungpandan. The whole area of approximately 140 square kilometers is only occupied by about 300 thousands residents. If you have been in Jakarta in Idul Fitri holiday, you know how it feels.
The best time for beach hopping is in the afternoon when the sun burn eased up and of course closing to the sunset time. Quiet fishing village at Tamjung Binga is quite a romantic place to enjoy the sunset. Despite of its small size, the village host a multicultural community, including Betawi, the traditional ethnic originally living in Jakarta. Except during the bad weather season when strong wind makes the ocean too dangerous, fishermen go out to the sea everyday with their “bagan”, traditional fishing boat with bars spanning out on its sides to spread fishing net. More than weather they are sometimes also facing intrusion of modern fishing vessels from China or Vietnam trying to steal fishes from Indonesian territory.
Tanjung Kelayang Beach is very attractive. So quiet that we will feel like being in our own private beach, Tanjung Kelayang has very soft white sandy beach giving sensational feels in our feet. Giant granite stones, unique characteristic of beaches in Belitung, are scattered around the beach. A rotten wooden house once used for shooting of a local TV movie is continuously attracting visitors as a unique place for photos.
Be aware of a small insect locally known as agas. Looking like mosquito, agas makes the beach their home. Maybe because the beach is rarely visited by humans. Bite of agas will leave itchy swell in the skin.
Tanjung Tinggi offers a different uniqueness. So many and so large are the granite stones, they create tunnels under them which we can walk across.
Off the beach we can find Sijuk, and old village in the northern part of the island, and home to Balinese migrants. Scenes of savanna, tin mining holes, and pepper plantation are continuously switching one after another along the way. Other than tin, Belitung is also known as producer of high quality pepper. Balinese migrants were initially moved in for pepper cultivation. It was a pity that they found that tin mining was making more fortune.
In Sijuk we can also find a Chinese temple built in 1818 which locals believe was built by the legendary Admiral Cheng Ho, and an old mosque built in 1817. As the sun goes down, the village falls asleep. So if we expect an attractive nightlife, Belitung is not the place.
Balinese gate marks the entrance to Balinese village of Giri Jati, which s inhabited by 200 families of Balinese migrant. As soon as we get through the gate, we will immediately find ourselves in Bali. The original raised wooden house provided by the government has been renovated into traditional Balinese houses including their shrines, Balinese statues with black and white sarong, and colorful flowers.
Culinary lovers can find Belitung’s unique dish of kepiting isi, stuffed crab, at Rumah Makan Pribumi. Crab meat cooked with eggs and some herbs was stuffed into the shell of small crab, so you do not have to juggle with troubles of getting the meat when eating crab. Kepiting isi is one of the most sought after hand out for them leaving Belitung back home.
Source: jalanjalan.co.id
Photography: Jan Dekker
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